Caprice of the gods

Weekend & Viaggi
01/06/2005

Capri: The secrets to capture the essence of the Azure Island, adapting to its rhythms, without haste. Rather, becoming a little Capri-like.

Caprice of the gods, the island of love, enchanted land, the azure island. Who knows how many things one has read about Capri: high literature, mythology, gossip, guides. Then, if you click on Google, in a few seconds over seven million references appear. It becomes difficult to orient oneself when the question is one of fixing concrete coordinates for a dream. So, let us forget all of that. Basically the secret of being a good traveller or a good reader should be to take in a good dose of information in due time and then to digest it, or decant it, to absorb its essence. In this task the azure island becomes an immediate accomplice. No effort is needed to persuade it.
As one leaves Naples and the mainland, with their ad stinks, their noise, their chaos, behind one, evil thoughts also get left behind, because the spirit of the island drives them out. Looking towards the bow, one sees the profile of dolomite rock lengthen, extending to east and west, between the peak of Monte Solaro and the hill dominated by Villa Jovis, the most important of the palaces built by our emperor - Tiberius obviously. Less important, but visible in the high season, immediately on entering Marina Grande harbour, are signs of the powerful of our own day. Almost always, the Candida, a vintage two-master owned by Diego della Valle, makes a fine show. Alongside it, there will be the Marlin, a small but fast commuter boat once used by John Fitzgerald Kennedy to travel from Manhattan to Long Island. There is not enough space for larger boats in the harbour and so they are to be seen at anchor, a mile from the coast. But we don’t want to present ourselves as VIP-watchers. If VIPs still exist, they don’t let themselves be seen going around, except when ridiculously escorted by bodyguards, a presence extraneous to local customs, as is also that of the few who insist on wearing a jacket and tie. On disembarking, one hands one’s luggage to the porters (who will take it to the hotel) and then takes a taxi to the town, unless one prefers to take the funicular, as the locals do.
The physical move is over, and the spiritual journey to Capri can begin. And it begins from the heart, the piazza. One can keep cool under the sunshades of the four cafes even when the moist sirocco wind is blowing. And the waiters are so perceptive that they are aware of what you would like to drink even before you open your mouth. If you are a foreigner, they will know whether to address you in English, or French or German. How could one not let oneself go and be spoiled, even though the price is not exactly mass market (though less than on the Costa Smeralda). The passers-by are the show, especially in late morning and before dinner. At midday, leafing through the newspapers at the historic newsagent’s below the bell tower, the youthful late risers breakfast before dragging themselves to the sea, mixing with the aperitif drinkers. In the evening, for cocktails and champagne, the terrace of the Quisisana hotel. Capri people say that the good weather begins on the day this historic hotel reopens for the season.
It is true that time here seems to expand. But the secret, especially if one comes for just a weekend, is to adapt to the rhythm, not to rush around, and not to try to see everything, as if it were a weekend of museums in London or Paris. A few things, therefore, because the secret is the change of gear. If you are lazy or very tired, Marina Piccola, shopping in the branch outlets of leading designers; that’s the easiest part, you hardly need to walk. At Torre Saracena the indefatigable Domenico serves our own crudités that would make any sashimi turn pale, and “peasant” pastas: with potatoes, with almonds and peas, “tubettoni” macaroni with mussels and the classic fish and seafood repertoire. Get someone to tell you the story of the “Bella Pezzogna” (a myth, though we like to believe in it) and, if the climb is too steep, there is a boat that makes the trip easier.
On the other hand, if strength and curiosity drive you, there is the pedestrian zone available, traversed every so often by little electric carriages, the only vehicles allowed to circulate. It is part of the Orient, a network of limestone walls of medieval alleys that climb towards the Castle, and under the Castiglione there is the hidden pinewood of via Tuoro, the bare rock that burns under the sun, and the wind that brings the perfume of Mediterranean vegetation and mixes it with that of the plants.
The distances are not all that great. Design your own Capri “a la carte”, playing with some key moves. Classical and archaeological: from the piazza under the arch on Via Longano towards Sopramonte. First halt at the workshop of Attilio, a sandal-maker who, with his beautiful Swedish wife, has survived the onslaught of mass production. Then, upwards to the Cross, and left in the direction of Villa Jovis. The little church of San Michele and, as the route becomes level and easier, rosemary, jasmine and prickly pear, face each other serenely. The ugly primary school (why so much concrete?) is forgotten two bends later. Villa Lo Pittore, newly and wisely restored, is a rare example of pure Capri architecture; then, two famous villas (the colonnade of the Monetella, with its Internet address, and the palms of the Schiava) and one is already half way, ready to tackle the last mile. This is the island’s true countryside, and so some new house appears here and there every year, one of the less attractive aspects of property speculation. The last two turns provide the most demanding section, but luckily the pines of villa Astarita to the southeast and a light westerly summer breeze restore one.
It is out of the question to climb without the famous guidance given by Amedeo Maiuri. One finds oneself at “La Conchiglia”, a bookshop and publisher highly specialised in local things, though not limited to them. An obligatory stop, therefore.
Once at the summit, one understands the greatness of Tiberius, who spent the last ten years of his life here. A 360° view, from Salerno bay to the Amalfi coast to Li Galli, from the Sorrento peninsula to Naples, Procida and Ischia. A glance into the void to imagine the giddiness that awaited disobedient slaves. Malevolent historians claim that the emperor had them thrown from the "leap" that bears his name (297 metres). Breathtaking. But today, fortunately, one descends on one’s own feet to the Cross. There is a bar there much loved by the locals, a good refreshment point: soft drinks and ice-cream. The objective now is Matermania, one climbs to the left up to a small altar to the Madonna. Another fork. Two itineraries, two restaurants. To the right the “Piano delle Noci” (so-named not for the walnuts, of which there is not the slightest trace, but for a family that used to own it) with a belvedere vertically above the sea, and a trattoria that is the latest addition to the area: “Da Tonino”, under the straw shades, with some curious and well-chosen offerings and a surprising wine list.
The other road ends under the Natural Arch, classic, like the pizza and chicken of “Le Grottelle” (ask to see the old oven, high up). Best everywhere to avoid the “local” or “house” wine. Campania offers first class bottles at by no means ruinous prices.
Now, if one’s physique allows and one is inclined for a longer walk, one of the less trodden paths can be taken. You can’t go wrong. Descending once more towards the sea, one flies towards Malaparte’s Red House, the Monacone, the Faraglioni, the Pizzolungo. Rather than counting the steps it is better to take care not to slip on the moss and to enjoy the walk.
Then in the late afternoon, a beauty sleep and then the embarrassment of making a choice of restaurant. The places are always the same. From the point of view of wine and food, but not only; with rare exceptions the menu does not change. "If such a lot of people come, why should we make such an effort?” many Capri people seem to feel, then complaining about the arrival of mass tourism. Perhaps a bit of innovation would be a good thing, but one cannot take it for granted that the result would be an improvement.
We like the Pizzeria Aurora, the Grottino di Gemma, La Capannina and the Faraglioni alle Camerelle (small tables with a view of the passers-by) A little more expensive, but always very enjoyable, are the restaurants of the to big hotels: the Quisisana (relaunched by the Morgano family) and the Palace, at Anacapri, the choice of the celebrities who seek repose at the beauty farm invented by the active owner, Tonino Cacace.
To complete the picture, Paolino, to dine under the lemons near the old sports field. It has become a military equipment, with perhaps too many tables, but the quality is still fair. In addition to the fish, almost all from far a field, that one finds everywhere, the meat is good and there is an appetising choice of sweets.
It seems a paradox, but Capri is not a classical seaside resort. The azure sea that made it famous is far from the town and is threatened by pollution, waste from the bays of Naples and Salerno, discharges from the huge number of boats. And a bath requires at least half an hour’s walk. If one has children, head for Marina Piccola, the most populated area, which is also reached by public transport. Such a lot of bathing establishments, from Maria to the Internazionale, from Sirene (they hire dinghies and catamarans) to Gioia (the best food and a bit out of the crush). One can walk to the point of the Sirene rocks, trying to imagine Ulysses’ struggle.
Ideal for those travelling light, (not even a rucksack is needed), is the most famous destination, the Faraglioni. Descending from the Piazzetta to the Quisisana, without being alarmed to find that Via Camerelle has been transformed into a Fifth Avenue in miniature. The craftsmen have been swept away and there is not a high fashion brand unwilling to pay millions of euros for a display window. It’s a real pity that one can find the same things on Via Condotti or Via Montenapoleone, and that at times in August one feels a hot shiver before an exhibition of furs.
The alternative to globalised shopping is Via delle Botteghe. Let’s be clear, boutiques and jewellery have triumphed here too, but the tone is more discreet. Take care, in the confusion, not to miss the tiny shop where gentle Susi has for decades been cutting and sewing costumes for ladies and little girls with her own hands. She is one of the last personalities of real Capri.
Then Tragara, a long flowering aisle of bougainvillea, the beautiful Scalinatella swimming pool, mulberry water ice at the Brunella, and one flies down below the Belvedere. The wind at times breaks through the pinewood, but the cool lies in the sea.
Before choosing between “Da Luigi” and “La Fontelina” bathing establishments, look at the sea. If the sirocco is filling the natural harbour of Tragara with rubbish, it’s best to go elsewhere. If the wind is fresh, dive under the Monacone cliff; it’s the Blue of Capri.
As for the cuisine, we have no doubts. At the Fontelina one keeps to the classical: sangria on the rocks and then faultless spaghetti with clams, fish and greens. Tonino, the massive boss, is the all-seeing supervisor.
The nightlife does not offer much. The Number Two, which for decades sucked in the bystanders in front of the Quisisana, the Musmè, favoured by the young. And plan a late night if you want to go and sing yourself hoarse in the authentic casino of the Anima e Core. The place has just been rejuvenated and Guido Lembo is a force of nature who moves even the shiest. You could be surprised to find yourself dancing on the tables in the first light of dawn.
For those who love to get away, or perhaps sleep in a boat in the crowded harbour of Marina Grande, their refuge is the Approdo, and the adjoining Smeraldo: pizza, friendliness, fish, and not much noise. Always under the banner of relaxation and amusement.
Never demand punctuality on Capri. One can start to think about leaving only if one’s friend is a three quarters of an hour late; not sooner. And never forget to render homage to the emperor Tiberius, the presiding spirit of the place. Take a trip to the Palace by sea (the boat is near the hydrofoil ticket office). Between Marina Grande and the Blue Grotto one gets only an idea of its dimensions. The remains of a nymphaeum and a small dock where triremes were repaired. Throwing crusts of bread to the fish at Tiberius’ baths, from which Maria De Martino’s “Limoncello” set out for world-wide fame, celebrate with chilled wine and seafood. It will be difficult to leave, and some people stay for ever.


CAPRI MON AMOUR
Love at first sight between Capri and Pierluigi Loro Piana, an extraordinarily successful entrepreneur, one of the world’s greatest experts on textiles. “Friends and good humour, that is what Capri means to me, and I have been going back there for twenty years. To experience it, even for those arriving there for the first time, is very easy. By day, hiring a boat at Marina Grande for a trip round the island, with an obligatory halt at O’riccio or Fontelina for a dish of pasta, “pennette sciuèsciuè”. In the evening, an aperitif on the Piazzetta – one only has to ask for “the Professor’s”, grapefruit, Campari and vodka which according to Roberto Mazza “the professor”, goes well in the morning too. Then a walk – one always finds new corners – sunset from Tiberius’ villa, the unmissable night at Anema e Core: overwhelming music, songs and dancing on the tables”. As an enthusiastic sailor, Loro Piana will be at Capri for the historic “Regatta dei Tre Golfi”. “I have a fantastic relationship with Naples and the Neapolitans, as my father did before me, when he talked to me about the Circolo Italia as if it were a Temple of sailing. The Tre Golfi has it all: history and tradition. The midnight start with the thousand lights one leaves behind, the passage to Ventotene at sunset, dawn between Ischia and Capri .... with a particularly well-chosen formula that lets you spend two weekends, or the whole week if one has the time, in one of the world’s most beautiful settings for a Regatta”.